May 31, 2011

Youssef Zeidan: An nabaty (يوسف زيدان: النبطي)

كان النبطي مبتغاي من المبتدأ وحُلمي الذي لم يكتمل إلى المنتهى،  ما لي دوماً مستسلمة لما يأتيني من خارجي، فيستلبني .. هل أغافلهم وهم أصلا غافلون، فأعود إليه لأبقى معه ومعاً نموت ثم نولد من جديد هدهدين؟
The Nabataean was my desire from the very beginning and my unaccomplished dream. Why do I always submit to the external forces that rob me of who I am? … Should I leave while they are distracted and return to him so we die together and be resurrected as two hoopoes?


An nabaty is a beautifully told story of a Coptic woman named Maria telling of her childhood in her poor little village, her tiresome travel across the desert to marry a Nabatean Arab merchant, her enchantment with her husband’s brother ‘An nabaty’ and her final hesitation between following her husband or following An nabaty to his mountain place.
 
The novel is almost as captivating to read as Zeidan’s masterpiece Azazil. The historical detail and the richness of the life led by Azazil’s protagonist make it a more interesting story to follow. However, the focus on the woman in this story and her submission, albeit willing submission, to her husband and his family, present a more pressing story of women’s place in that time while also taking the reader into a journey, part fictional, part real, of the appearance of Islam and other prophets of the area. An nabaty leads a life, in its beginning, much similar to the stories we heard of the Prophet Muhammed himself. However, there is peacefulness in An nabaty’s religion that is starkly contrasted with the more forceful one of the Prophet Muhammed as we learn of Maria’s husband’s gradual submersion into the crusades fought by the Prophet and his followers, and his simultaneous change from a peaceful attentive husband to one who is rugged and careless to his wife’s emotional needs.

I enjoyed learning about Maria and her own vision of what’s going on around her. But I think I was no doubt just as well captivated by Zeidan’s style of interweaving fiction with history in a way that makes the historical background a motivation for readers familiar with such history. Maria’s life is interesting in itself, but I have no doubt that my interest in the novel was also in great part linked to its description of the changing face of religion in the area, of An nabaty’s great resemblances to the stories we learned about the Prophet, and maybe even to the minor role Zeidan allots in his story to stories that remain, at least in our culture, primary; those of the feat of the Prophet Muhammed in the area. That Zeidan succeeded here in making Maria’s life, a simple woman from a simple village, more interesting than the hustle and bustle of the religious struggles, is most certainly applauded. This is, after all, the story of a young girl and her journey into womanhood, her struggles and tribulations both physical and emotional, and her personal views regarding the changing face of the people and religions that surround her. But it is also a story of the religious conflict in an area where Judaism, Christianity, and Islam lived side by side with other religious beliefs. The family Maria marries into is just such example: her husband is a Christian who turns Muslim towards the end of the novel, his oldest brother chooses Judaism, his younger brother tries to find his own religion, and their mother worships a pre-Islamic goddess ‘Allat’.

I highly recommend this novel though I suggest you read Azazil also.

May 30, 2011

Istanbul in May

Istanbul is a very beautiful and lively city. It is crowded, clean, and safe even for a walk late at night in its very robust streets. My favorite walking destination was İstiklâl Caddesi (Avenue) that is lined with different types of shops, restaurants, cafes and alleys leading to more restaurants and cafes. It’s a great walk either during the day or late at night. Music is heard at night from the scattered bars and clubs or simply from the people standing to greet customers (360 restaurant offers a beautiful view of the city from its roof setup). Abdi İpekçi Caddesi in Nişantaşı is a more quiet and elegant street for shorter walks, also beautiful though not as lively as İstiklâl (Midpoint restaurant serves delicious pasta).

The Modern Museum is worth a visit, maybe more for the spectacular view from its restaurant than for the works of art displayed there. There were some interesting paintings around, most noticeable to me were two rather different and eye-captivating displays, one of a woman’s profile about 2x2 meters made by stitching together differently colored fabric, and another of a carpet that appears like a painting of cigarette smoke and on closer inspections proves to be a carpet. There are other works of art scattered around but nothing that specifically captured my attention, but then maybe because I’m not much into modern art.

The Dervish ceremony I attended was not as mystical as I’d expected it to be. It’s a good show lasting for one hour, but was definitely missing that aura of the Divine Truth it is meant to lead to. Or maybe, like modern art, mysticism just escapes me completely.

Topkapi is a museum that claims to house the swords of every Khalifa you can think of, strands of hair from the prophet, Moses’s rod, a dress for Fatimah, another for Hussain, among other artifacts amazing simply for the ability of the museum curators to expect its audience to believe their authenticity.

I leave you with a few snapshots that my camera remembered to take:

Scattered around the streets are three main food vendors: Kestaneh (Chestnuts), Misir (Corn on the Cob), and Simit (bread, between a bagel and a pretzel)

Saj or Pancakes are made by this delightful Turkish woman in a place called Home Made, filled with cheese, spinach, meat, or whatever else. This is also where I ventured to try Raki and found it, if not unbearable, yet not a drink I would order again. But it was a must try in my must try drinks. (The small picture of Knafeh is from my favourite coffee place, Mado, a chain found around the city. Their breakfast plates are delicious but I attacked the food before remembering to take a picture so I went again to try their Knafeh (yummy) and take a picture of that.

Boza: a drink made with burghul and sugar. This is another one of my must-try Turkish drinks. Thick and heavy but very good. Creamy and sweet with a touch of cinnamon on top. The people in this place had nuts thrown in or eaten on the side.

The Grand Bazaar in the old town is a fun place that reminds me of Khan el-Khaleeli in Cairo. Antiques, light fixtures, silver jewellery, shawls, just about everything eye-gawking. Unlike its Cairo look-alike, this place is spotless clean and there are no cats and dogs roaming around while I drank my tea. It is also completely indoors as I believe the weather in Turkey is not always as gentle as it is in this month of May.

Ortaköy Pier is a place rather hard to reach as no trams or Metro stations lead to it. I avoided taxis during my stay as the city is extremely crowded and the public transport system is very well-maintained. But in this case I had to take a taxi to get here. The view of the sea is amazing and the coffee shops and restaurants scattered around are all very well-serviced, offering delicious food.

The majestic Aya Sofya, basilica turned to mosque turned to museum. Spectacular, the interior is a sight that my camera failed to capture properly. Again this reminded me of Muhammad Ali's Mosque in Saladin's Citadel in Cairo. If the Dervishes mysticism failed to entrap me, the designs inside this mosque definitely succeeded. I didn't want to leave. Mosques and Cathedrals always have this effect on me. There must be some religious fanatic inside me waiting to be released :)

There was an excessively long queue to get into Dolmabahçe Palace which I personally thought was a more pleasant palace to walk around than go in. The gardens with their sea-view are much more inviting that the forced toured walk into the palace. The palace itself doesn’t offer anything different. There’s nothing special in Salamlak, just the usual European style palace furniture with only a hint of two of Eastern art. The paintings are mediocre. My favorite room was the grand ceremonial hall. The Harem part of the tour was more worthy of a visit though our guide insisted on started his explanation before all of our group arrived to each stop.

Sultanahmet or the blue mosque is a very beautiful building though unfortunately I couldn’t go in as it was prayer time and I wasn’t properly dressed. The building had a hint of bluish grey which justifies the nickname, but I expected something actually blue. (Imbedded is a smaller view from Aya Sofya onto Sultanahmed with the bluish domes more noticeable)

A trip to Istanbul wouldn’t count without a view of the Bosphorus, always a pleasant view from any corner of the city. This one is taken while walking from Kabataş Pier to Dolmabahçe Palace, another mosque viewable here in this city of mosques and minarets (Bezmi Alem Valide Sultan Mosque). the imbedded picture is from the cafe area in Aya Sofya.

This city tour would also be incomplete without a snapshot of one of Istanbul’s metro stations as the train is about to pull away. This and the tram are my main mode of transport here as the city is too crowded for taxis to be worth their while, and the public transportation system is very well-maintained and an excellent means of getting around.